The Big Apple
Monday, March 31st, 2008Last week for spring break, we decided on a quick trip to New York City. We had a wonderful 5 days visiting museums, walking, eating at a wide variety of restaurants, walking, seeing some interesting shows, walking, shopping, and walking. Oh, yes, we also had a taxicab accident—as a result of which I have a black eye!
We arrived on Sunday in time to catch part of the Whitney Museum Biennial 2008–that part at The Park Avenue Armory, which has been partially restored and is quite interesting in itself. The show was a little weird, to say the least. Conceptual, offbeat, modern art–but most of it could have been created by you or me. The pieces seemed derivative, contrived, and juvenile. We watched a performance art piece that was interesting though off-color. That night we sated ourselves with meat at Churrascaria Plataforma. My son and I both thought that “Fogo de Cow” (as we call it) in Chicago was better.
Monday morning we started at The Museum of Modern Art, of course. We were really anxious to see the newest exhibit, “Design and the Elastic Mind”. The exhibit explored the ongoing and futuristic relationship between design, science, and technology. It included “objects, projects, and concepts offered by teams of designers, scientists, and engineers from all over the world, ranging from the nanoscale to the cosmological scale.” There were a number of projects from researchers at MIT. My favorite piece was this, which was about 4 feet across:
I hope you can read the description:
We also toured a small exhibit of Alexander Calder mobiles, a large exhibit on the reinvention of color over the past 50 years, and visited some of the new acquisitions in the Design Collection:
A wall of foamcore “North Tiles” laminated in wool fabric designed by Erwan and Ronan Bouroullec for the Danish textile company Kvadrat, which went on to manufacture these movable walls for the public.
“Tanabata,” designed by Reiko Sudo for the Japanese textile corporation Nuno. “The fabric is heat-treated, folded, and cut to create an accordion-like structure with exceptional elasticity and motion. It is part of Nuno’s enormously popular Origami Pleats line.”
Of course, I also had to visit a few old favorites in the design collection:
the amazing Tiffany lamp (with Frank Lloyd Wright bench behind it) and
incredible Art Nouveau silver jewel box crafted by Archibald Knox in 1900 and
this magnificent Art Nouveau wrought iron fireplace screen.
I managed to squeeze in a quick visit to the Museum of Art and Design across the street in order to see the exhibit “Pricked: Extreme Embroidery.” I’d been looking forward to it but was somewhat disappointed, as many of the pieces seemed either derivative, contrived (again!), or, surprisingly, included very little actual embroidery. On the whole, it was nowhere near as interesting as last year’s “Radical Lace & Subversive Knitting” exhibit (which I only viewed through its catalog). The museum is closing on April 27 in preparation for a move to a new location in September.
Sated with art and the always fun shopping stop at the MOMA Design store, we then headed off to a vegetarian Korean Zen restaurant above a teahouse (with only a short interruption for a taxicab accident—and I have a black eye to prove it—on the way!); after which we went to see Monday Night Magic, which was a fabulous magic show. We saw three different magicians perform and even had a chance during intermission to view close-up magic in the aisles of the theater. My son was hooked—we had to visit 2 magic shops during the week so he could buy some books on card tricks and some special decks of cards.
The next day we toured the Lower East Side, walking around Delancey and Ludlow Streets. We toured The Lower East Side Tenement Museum—an incredible view into the way that immigrant families in the early part of the 20th century lived and worked in the textile industry. It was unbelievable to think that families of 6 or 8 people (often with boarders for extra rent) crowded into 3 tiny rooms and often used the front parlor for their dressmaking business as well. There was no sanitation or running water until 1910 I think and then sanitation meant 2 toilets in the hallway for 8 apartments. It was interesting.
We had to have lunch at the famous Katz’s Delicatessen:
which is always packed with people. They obviously come for
the matzo ball soup and the corned beef/pastrami sandwiches!
We searched out the Streit’s Matzo Factory where you can actually see them making the matzo (and get a warm matzo straight off the assembly line!).
Wandering the streets, we also happened upon a little shop called Economy Candy:
We had fun in there–it was like visiting Willy Wonka’s!
Finally, in stark contrast to the milieu of our day, that evening we had a finely honed organic dinner at Craft, Chef Tom Colicchio’s signature restaurant. The setting was stunning and relaxing; the food was fresh, tasty and unusual; the dessert was incredible!
Wednesday we traveled out to see “(RE)Possessed” at The Jersey City Museum. The exhibit consisted of a gallery environment set for a spiritual African Tea Ceremony, containing crocheted sculptures by Xenobia Bailey:
(I managed to snap these photos before being warned by a guard that no photos were allowed…sorry Xenobia!). From the ceiling hung amazing glass chandelier-sculptures by Dorian Webb, while jazz music by Renee McLean played over the speakers. In cases along the wall were crocheted hats by Xenobia, a porcelain tea set and tea tins with Xenobia’s photo on them, designed by her and produced by Doughba Hamilton Caranda-Martin, full of different tea and cocoa blends (for sale in the gift shop too!). The whole experience was delightful and definitely worth the trip out to Jersey City. The museum also had an interesting cast resin flower sculpture by Carson Fox spread across the stairwell wall and a display of collage/watercolor/journal drawings by Amy Wilson.
Wednesday for lunch we went to a Kosher Moroccan restaurant on the Upper West Side and then visited the famous Zabar’s. What a grocery store! I just had time to meet up with the New York Crochet Guild and one of my friends who is in charge of putting together the New York exhibit of The Coral Reef with the Wertheim sisters. I missed seeing the exhibit when it was in Chicago and was too early to see it in New York but from the bits and pieces that the women were working on that night, it should be fascinating!
That night we ate at a small Italian restaurant before going to a show at The New World Stages. We saw the Australian comedian Tim Minchin, an immensely talented musician and intelligent, witty, self-effacing, dark comedian with a refreshing offbeat sense of humor. He interspersed his stand-up routine with playing the piano, singing songs he had written, and interacting with the audience—since we were in the first row center, this included us! I thought he was terrific.
Finally, on our last day we hit The Met for a quick tour of the special exhibits: Jasper Johns, Gustave Courbet, and “blog.mode: addressing fashion”. We ran through a few of the regular exhibit halls and this textile caught my eye:
Titled “Between Heaven and Earth,” it was created by El Anatsui, an African artist of international renown. Made in Nigeria in 2006, the piece is designed to refer to strip-woven textiles like African kente cloth but is constructed from copper wire and tin recycled from liquor bottle caps. It shimmers like gold, undulates like the finest silk, and is absolutely amazing to see in person.
After The Met, we ate lunch at [E.A.T.[(http://elismanhattan.com/eat.html), Zabar’s restaurant on the Upper East Side, where you can get the same sandwiches for double the price as on the West Side! It provided some interesting people watching.
That afternoon we went to my ultimate destination: Neue Galerie where we immersed ourselves in the life and works of Gustav Klimt. It was fabulous. I had left this until Thursday because this was the opening day of a special exhibit: WIENER WERKSTÄTTE JEWELRY which displayed more than 40 precious objects from public and private collections, including significant pieces by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser. Some of the jewelry included the actual pieces purchased by Klimt for his muse, the fashion designer Emilie Flöge, which were shown being worn in enlarged photographs of her around the room.
We just had time for a quick dinner at Brasserie, a modern French bistro—which turned out to be the best meal we had the whole week—before leaving for the airport. I forgot to mention that somewhere in there we had also walked around SOHO (twice), shopped at Dean & DeLuca (of course), and visited B&H Camera twice (they have a very cool conveyor-belt system to send your purchases to the checkout). All in all, it was a very satisfying visit.












































