Anatomy of a postcard
Friday, May 26th, 2006In case anyone was wondering just why it takes me so long to make these quiltart postcards (aside from the fact that I have 45 of them to make at a time and aside from the fact that I am not a quilter and that I am barely on speaking terms with my sewing machine), I thought I would write up a list of what I went through to make these. Now I realize that a lot of this could be corrected with organization and experience but some of it is just part of the process and will always be there. These bits of postcard art might be small and, though fun to make, they’re often neither all that easy nor quick to create, and maybe they shouldn’t be…maybe that’s part of it, the fact that their creation takes time and experimentation, and the suffering of mistakes along the way. Anyway, if you don’t want to read this, you can jump to the end for photos of the front and back of the postcard.
Anatomy of a postcard:
1. Have an idea of how you want the postcard to look.
2. Play around with the idea for a while and see if it might work out.
3. I wanted to start with the photograph of my mother from the early 1940′s when she was on a holiday in Mississippi and one of her girlfriends caught a photo of her eating a watermelon while leaning against the back of a car.
4. Scan the photo into Photoshop Elements and wrestle with it for a long while (hours? days?) to get it the way you want. It was an old black and white photo with lots of scratches so took quite a bit of fiddling with to make it presentable.
5. Crop and size the photo (also a long process, involving much reading of Photoshop for Dummies and Photoshop Elements, The Missing Manual).
6. Then I colorized the photo, but just lightly, so it still looked old-fashioned. Unfortunately, the original was so out of focus that it was impossible to get really sharp.
7. Print the photo out on Avery fusible printer fabric, 9 photos to the sheet.
8. Attempt to cut out the photos with a metal ruler and Olfa rolling cutter. Realize you have to hold the metal ruler down really tightly so that the fabric won’t move while you’re cutting. (A lesson you will have to learn repeatedly throughout the process.)
9. After the photos are all cut out, go back over them with a small trimming scissors to cut off any remaining white parts your uneven cutting left behind.
10. Set photos aside.
11. Search through your stash (wherever you can find it–mine is mostly in stacking drawers in the dreaded storage closet but also piled up on what is supposed to be my working craft table, piled on top of the stacking drawers, in assorted shopping bags…well, you get the idea) and select fabrics that fit your theme. If you are lucky, you already have these and won’t have to go shopping for more fabric. I just happened to have about 1/2 yard of watermelon fabric in two different colorways–perfect!
12. Measure the fabric every which way to see if you can get 45 4″x6″ postcards out of them. Looks like we’ll just make it, though there is slightly less green fabric for some reason.
13. Wash the fabrics to remove the sizing. Throw the fabrics in the dryer. Cut off all the loose tangle of threads that result from washing and drying the fabrics.
14. Iron the fabrics. On both sides.
15. Normally here I would be ironing (fusing) WonderUnder to the backs of the fabrics and using regular Peltex (or Timtex) for the inside stiffener (batting) of my postcards. However, in a delusional moment, I happened to buy 6 yards of the new Pellon 70 (hereafter referred to as Peltex70), which is supposed to already have fusible on both sides. So I thought, “Great! That cuts out the extra steps of using the WonderUnder.”
16. The regular Peltex has a paper backing (like WonderUnder). The new Peltex70 has a plastic backing. With WonderUnder (which is a 2-sided fusible), you keep the paper backing in place on the one side, while you lay the other fusible side down on the back of your fabric and then you place your iron on the paper for 5-10 sec. to fuse it to the fabric. Later, you remove the paper backing, place another piece of fabric down onto the unused side of the WonderUnder and iron from the top of the fabric in the same way to fuse it. Okay…the directions on the Peltex70 were very scant but one would assume it worked in the same way. Luckily, luckily, I tested a small 1-postcard-sized piece first. I laid the one rough side down on the back of my fabric (like the instructions said) and then placed my iron on the plastic (like you would on the paper) backing for 5 sec. or so. Well, the Peltex70 didn’t fuse to the fabric, so I held the iron there a few more seconds. Finally, it seemed to grip the fabric a little bit but still not much. I set the iron aside, lifted up the piece and, much to my surprise, found that the plastic backing was perfectly fused to the Peltex70!!! It did not peel off in one piece (like paper backing would) but had to be peeled away in tiny bits and strips until I finally gave up altogether and left the rest on there. Besides this, the fabric was hardly fused at all.
17. So, I decide to rip all the plastic backing off the Peltex70 and throw it away.
18. I search out my supply of old Wonder Under paper backing (which you always keep, as it comes in handy) and use it instead. I also decide that the only way this is going to work is if you also fuse the first piece of fabric from the front instead of from the back. So I lay a piece of paper backing on the ironing board. Then I place the Peltex70 on top of it; then my fabric, face up. Then I press with the iron as you’re supposed to. Works like a charm, except for the fabric constantly trying to wrinkle along the rough surface of the Peltex70. I struggle to keep the wrinkles to a minimum.
19. I let the fabric cool and peel it (now fused to the Peltex70) off the paper backing. That’s how it’s supposed to work.
20. I lay the piece of fabric face down on my Olfa cutting mat and start to measure and draw out my cutting lines for the postcards. This doesn’t work as the marker doesn’t write well on the Peltex70, so I decide to just go by using the ruler and ruled lines along the cutting mat.
21. I cut out the postcards. Not all of the lines come out straight, as the ruler has an alarming tendency to move while I’m cutting. Also, the Peltex70 seems to be taking a toll on my Olfa blade but I don’t have a spare.
22. Finally all the postcards are cut out. They have the front fabric on them and the Peltex70 insides fused to the front fabric.
23. Back to the photos. I need to fuse them to the front fabric of the postcards. This means that I have to keep backing paper down on my ironing board so that the back of the Peltex70 (which has fusible on it) doesn’t stick to the ironing board. Luckily, the Avery fusible printer fabric always irons right on without a problem (as long as you use a dry iron; do not use steam!!). I decide to put the photos off center to the right; I’m not quite sure why.
24. I decide it would look very 1940′s to frame the photo with rick rack.
25. I remember I bought some rick rack sometime last fall. I search through my entire storage closet (which, I’ll admit is a huge mess) for the rick rack; I am able to visualize it in a bag from Joann Fabrics but can’t find it anywhere.
26. I storm around my office/craft room, searching every shelf, moving books, boxes of beads, everything, looking for the rick rack.
27. I return to the storage closet and search through everything again.
28. Finally I give up and wonder whether there’s time for a trip to Hancock fabric to buy more rick rack when I turn around and see the bag from Joann’s lying, in plain sight, on top of one of my yarn cabinets in the storage closet. I mean, it was RIGHT THERE in front of my nose!! And I must have been searching for over an hour.
29. I relax.
30. I measure the sides of the photo and start cutting the rick rack pieces to size. Yes, I do remember that 2 of the sides (the longer ones) need to overlap the other 2 in order for it to look nice. I make 2 nice, neat piles of rick rack in 2 different sizes. I begin to wonder whether I have enough rick rack but can’t remember how many pieces I have cut and am too tired to begin counting them. I decide to go to bed and the next day make a trip to the nearby Hancock Fabrics to pick up a spare pack or two of rick rack, just in case.
31. I wake up the next morning to find that the cat has very helpfully made the two piles of rick rack into one not very neat pile. No problem–I can tell short from long. I do end up having to buy 2 extra packs of rick rack and it’s a good thing too, as I use every last bit. I nearly had a panic attack at Hancock when it looked like they had run out of the regular-size red rick rack but I finally found some hiding behind the jumbo size.
32. I decide to lightly apply some fabric glue stick to the back side of the rick rack so it will stay in place until I can sew it down. I spend most of the day gluing and placing rick rack. Oh, and trimming the ever-raveling cut edges of the rick rack.
33. The rick rack looks good around the photos. I pull out the sewing machine and find a matching cherry red thread with which to sew down the rick rack.
34. I sew down the rick rack, turning the corners to make a complete square. I just use a plain straight stitch, going down the center of the rick rack. This proves harder than it looks because my eyes keep getting thrown off and want to follow the curve of the rick rack, with my hands following. I fight to keep the machine sewing in a straight line. This pretty much takes all day.
35. I further trim the ends of the rick rack and glue down any that were missed by the stitching. The photo is now framed.
36. I stare at the front of the postcard for a while trying to decide what else to do with it. I had wanted to put some buttons on it to continue with the old-timey 1940′s theme but knew I was incapable of hand-sewing buttons to 45 postcards, especially through the stiff Peltex70.
37. I have several bags of assorted “country colors” buttons in 4 colors and sizes. I pull out all the melon/orange 2-hole buttons. There are exactly 47 of them.
38. I remember that my sewing machine has a button attachment, which I have never used.
39. I pull out my sewing machine manual and proceed to read about using the button attachment.
40. I search for the button attachment, actually find it within a reasonable amount of time and figure out how to put it on the machine.
41. I find a melon color thread to match the button and thread the needle with it.
42. You have to be very exact about placing a button into the attachment and then must remove the thread from the needle and move the needle manually down to make sure it goes into the buttonholes and doesn’t hit the button. Then you have to re-thread the needle. You have to do this each time you sew on a new button.
42. It seems you also have to hold the needle thread just right so that it will catch the bobbin thread and actually sew on the button. It takes me about 6 tries to get the hang of this. It also turns out that the “regular” button sewing-on isn’t strong enough; I have to do the automatic process twice to have a double sewn button so that it is strong enough to stay on. It looks like a lot of thread on top of the button but at least it stays on.
43. I start sewing the buttons, going through the re-threading the needle process each time. For some reason I can’t figure out, it turns out I also have to reset the bobbin thread after each button. I am using a black bobbin thread which I can barely see, as it is nighttime by now, but I have a brainstorm: I run to my bedroom and search through my knitting kit for my bag of crochet hooks. I pull out my size 10 steel crochet hook and use that to catch the bobbin thread so that I can run it through the raceway to reset the bobbin thread correctly after each button.
44. I finally finish sewing on the buttons. It most likely would have been faster to sew them on by hand and I immediately drop my plan to sew the green and yellow buttons to the back side of the postcard.
45. I remove the button attachment and put the sewing machine back the way it was.
46. The front of the postcard still looks a little empty. The left side has nothing on it. I wonder what I could do there. I wonder whether I happen to have a rubber stamp of a watermelon.
47. I head back to the storage closet and pull out the stacks of drawers with my rubber stamps in it (that I haven’t touched in years). One drawer is labeled “Food.” I take it out to my desk and start looking through it. Lots of food but nothing that looks like a watermelon. Wait…there…in the back…flat against the back of the drawer is an unmounted fabric stamp of a watermelon! What luck! I take out the stamp, put back the drawer and decide to go to bed.
48. I’ve never used this stamp before. It is very glossy and needs to be roughed up with some sandpaper so it will hold the ink. I do that. Luckily it is a thick enough piece of rubber that it doesn’t have to be mounted to be used.
49. I try out all my various fabric paints and inks but decide that a regular rubber stamp ink pad will work best for the inside of the watermelon and ink up the Vivid peach color pad. These pads are small enough that I can stamp onto the watermelon without hitting the rim.
50. Then I use a dark green Vivid pen to color in the rind of the watermelon.
51. It stamps out very nicely so I proceed to stamp each postcard, inking the stamp in between each one. It produces a slightly faint image, which is what I want. I have to stop every so often to wash the rubber stamp clean.
52. Then I realize there isn’t enough actual quilting on the postcard, so I decide to sew an outline around the stamped image of the watermelon.
53. I use the melon-color thread for the watermelon part and a dark green thread for the rind and proceed to outline the image with stitching.
54. As I have never learned to free-motion embroider, this is harder than it looks. I keep my feed dogs up and just do a plain stitch very slowly around, turning the fabric as best I can to follow the image.
55. Ta Da! The fronts are finished.
56. Now for the backs–the green and yellow watermelon fabric. Suddenly it hits me. Usually I stiffen the fabric with the WonderUnder backing, which allows me to sew on it, fuse labels to it, etc. without a problem. This fabric is naked and floppy. I hesitate to use WonderUnder, lest the fusible (WonderUnder) to fusible (Peltex70) bond doesn’t take for some reason, so I head back to the fabric store to find some sort of stiff interfacing that is only fusible on one side, so I can stiffen my green watermelon fabric.
57. After much searching (i.e., trying to read the tiny lettering on the ends of the bolts) and pretty much no help from the salesgirls, I find a shirting interfacing that has a lightweight to medium stiffness and is fusible only on one side. Perfect.
58. I rush home and fuse it to my green watermelon fabric. I iron it smooth (it is also prone to wrinkle).
59. I cut the green fabric to postcard size, suffering through all the same cutting problems as above.
60. Back to the computer. It’s time to print out the address labels. Too bad that my entire address label template for this group has been lost in my hard drive crash. Supposedly it was recovered but when I try to open it, it is garbage; so I start from scratch, setting up a template and typing in everyone’s address. Surprise–not counting myself, there are only 39 people in the group. Oh well, guess I have room for mistakes (or will have a few extra postcards to send to friends).
61. I need to print out the address labels, return address labels, and a label identifying the swap on Avery printer fabric but don’t really want the background to be white. I’ve tried before to color in the template label on the computer and have the printer print it out in color but that usually looks like crap (dots of color) so I decide to print them out on the white background and, then, after the ink has dried, give them a wash of background color over the printing. Will it work, or will it smear the printing?
62. I print everything, using my entire packet of Avery fabric (5 sheets). I let the printing dry overnight.
63. Now, what to use for a wash? On old leftover scraps of Avery printer fabric, I try out various acrylic paints, all the different Jacquard fabric paints that I have, rubber stamp ink pads, the Tsukineko All-Purpose Inks, but nothing seems to work quite right. Things are either too thick, too thin, too opaque, or too pale. Then I try some of the Pebeo Setacolor transparent paints and they seem just right.
64. I mix some of the yellow with a bit of red and brown to get a color that seems to match the watermelons on the green fabric. I shake it up in a small plastic jar, dab some on a cosmetic sponge, and start rubbing it over the sheets of printer fabric (after first trying it out on one address label to make sure the printer ink won’t run). It works fine except that the sheets curl up like crazy. The ink washes unevenly but that was the effect I was looking for. I press the sheets under some heavy books and give it up for the night.
65. The next morning the sheets are relatively dry and uncurled so I start cutting apart the address labels. At first I use the Olfa cutter but, again, this only works so well. Eventually it is just as efficient (though harder on my hand) to use a scissors to cut the small labels apart and trim them down.
66. Next I have to decide the arrangement of the labels on the green fabric postcard backs. It takes a while fiddling with the placement but eventually I decide to place the swap label at the bottom and the tag line–”Hang on; Summer’s coming” label going diagonally across the card, edging into the postage stamp area. I hope this is all right with the post office. (At first I had the swap label going vertically, dividing the right and left halves of the postcard, as is normally done.)
67. I had decided to print the tag line labels in orange/red ink and leave their background white to coordinate with the watermelon fabric on the front of the card. Now it occurs to me that if I had instead bought yellow rick rack to frame the photo, it would have coordinated better with the yellow watermelons on the back of the card and tied the 2 sides together more. Oh well, too late for that!
68. One by one, I fuse the address labels to the postcards.
69. One by one, I fuse the return address labels to the postcards, being careful not to put them too close to the corner (saving room for the stitching around the card).
70. One by one, I fuse the swap labels to the postcards.
71. Finally, one by one, I fuse the tag line labels to the postcards.
72. Next, I like to zigzag stitch around the address labels. I decide to do this with a lighter green thread that matches the background green of the fabric. Turning the corners goes slowly since the labels are so small.
73. At last the backs are done and I set them aside.
74. I return to the fronts of the postcards for the final touch–in a moment of madness, I have decided that the blank spaces in the watermelon stamp that were meant to be colored in for seeds, would look great beaded instead of just colored in. Back to the storage closet and move a few more sets of stacking drawers around.
75. I find the drawers with my seed beads and try out different sizes. I quickly reject size 11′s as being too small and settle on black size 8 seed beads. Luckily I have a lot of these.
76. I begin to hunt for a beading needle. It has been a long time since I beaded and I can’t remember where I put my basic supplies. I start searching through drawers again, with no luck, and finally just pull an old needle off an unfinished project.
77. Then I start searching for my spool of black Silamide beading thread. Well, you can pretty much just re-copy the hunt for the rick-rack here. I search high and low; in drawers; under piles of fabric; behind books; in containers; everywhere…and at least twice. After another hour, I give up the hunt and resort to using some old (early 90′s) Silamide I had when it originally came in long, flat cardboard containers and you cut it yourself into lengths by breaking the end of the case open and snipping the skein in just the right way, then pulled an individual length out of an opening in the middle. This was when it was basically a tailor’s thread, not a beader’s, long before it came wound on little cardboard bobbins or on spools.
78. I sit down at my computer desk and pull out a length of Silamide, thread the needle, keeping the thread doubled, and put on the first bead. I decide the length of thread is just right–I should be able to sew beads onto 2 or 3 postcards with each length. I finish sewing beads to the first postcard, going through each bead twice and tying strong knots behind at each end (this takes about 15 minutes).
79. I look up to check my email and there, on the little shelf just next to my computer screen, is the spool of black Silamide. I swear! I decide to continue using the cardboard container of cut lengths anyway.
80. Some postcards have watermelon with more seeds showing–these get more beads; some have less. Some I bead at my desk; some I bead in bed watching television. All in all, the beading takes about 4-5 days to finish.
81. Finally the fronts are completed and I am satisfied with them.
82. Now it is time to fuse the backs to the Peltex70 (that is already fused to the fronts). Much to my surprise, I have no trouble with the shirt interfacing and the two pieces fuse together with some heavy pressing from the green fabric side. However, the fronts and backs weren’t cut to exactly the same size. Consequently, I spend hours trimming the postcards with a scissors, including trimming loose threads from the fabrics. Finally all the postcards look nice and neat.
83. At last it is time to stitch around the edges of the postcard in some fashion so that they look “finished.” I decide to try stitching from the front with a dark green thread in the needle to pick up the leaves and the watermelon rind. On the first postcard I sew a very close together zigzag that becomes a satin stitch. Too late, I realize that I still have black thread in the bobbin which creates a black satin stitch on the back of the postcard. Then I decide I don’t like the green on the front–it’s too dark and overwhelms the watermelon and the photo. Then I realize my machine has been making noises and 1) doesn’t like the close satin stitching through the Peltex70 and 2) probably needs a new needle.
84. I try to remember what size needle is in my machine; eventually figure it out and put in a new one.
85. I switch the needle thread to the melon color thread I had used before to outline the watermelon.
86. I hunt for an empty bobbin and, of course, can’t find one. I pull all the white thread off a bobbin and start winding light green thread onto it.
87. On a test piece of fabric, I try various zigzag stitch combinations of length and width until I find one I like.
88. Unfortunately this one is rather far apart and is going to allow the white Peltex 70 to show through on the edges. I don’t like that look (though others have left it)–to me it looks unfinished.
89. I again get out one of the Vivid dark green markers and start coloring in the edges of the postcard where the Peltex 70 shows. After a while I notice that I have green stripes all over my t-shirt and that my fingers and hands have green stripes too. It must be because the Vivid pen only contains dye ink and is not colorfast.
90. I wash my hands and throw my t-shirt in the laundry after a liberal application of Stain Stick.
91. Somehow, on one of my trips to Hancock Fabrics, I just happened to pick up a dark green Fabrico fabric marker. I try this and, while it does not color as well as the other marker, does dry immediately and does not bleed onto me or my t-shirt. I proceed to color around all 4 edges of 40 postcards. (It turns out there really wasn’t enough green fabric to make 45 postcards but I had forgotten about that and went ahead and beaded 45 fronts anyway.)
92. I start stitching around the edges of the postcards. This is nice, tedious, repetitive work that goes very smoothly except for having to re-fill the bobbin with green thread every so often. It is not long before I begin to feel as though I am working in a textile sweatshop. The stitching takes a few more days.
93. At last we have completed postcards. In an interval while sewing, I had taken one to the post office to buy stamps for them all. We’ll bypass the long, involved story of how I did not get my favorite postmistress (who admires my fabric postcards and sometimes lets them go for postcard stamp postage) but instead got the “by the rule” postmistress who measured and harrumphed and insisted on dragging out from the back the 3″ thick postal manual and thumbing through it to find the regulation that read “Postcards must be made of paper or paper products” (or words to that effect). So I bought 39 cent stamps. The vegetables. Fine.
94. I adhere a postage stamp to the corner of each postcard with the fabric glue stick because they don’t usually stay on without doing this.
95. I take the postcards down to the basement and lay them out on newspaper so I can spray them with a waterproofing spray (like the kind you use on your boots in the winter). I always do this, just to make sure that nothing on them runs in case they get wet in transit.
96. The next morning I turn them over and spray the other side.
97. That afternoon, I bundle my postcards into a gallon ziplok bag and take them to the post office, hand them over to one of the nicer clerks, and remind her that they need to be hand cancelled.
98. I was done. I breathed a huge sigh of relief and went home to wait for emails from group members who had received their postcards.
99. The next day, I finished up the one remaining postcard for my mother and dropped it in the mailbox, just to see what would happen. It arrived at her house with the beads intact (surprise, surprise).
100. Doesn’t look like all that much, does it?



















