We spent 6 days in Rome just before Christmas—sort of a whirlwind tour, a little of everything to give our sons an exposure to Rome’s ancient culture and history, as well as to its modern food, language and culture. Eternal as Rome is, so little had really changed since I was last there 35 years ago and, yet, so much had changed: I found Rome to be (as all cities are now) so much more globalized, touristy, overwhelming; it was so less uncommon, less Italian, less intriguingly foreign than it had been in 1975.
Although weather forecasts had predicted sunny days and temps in the 50’s, only our first day there was truly sunny and in the 40’s. The rest of the week it rained more or less constantly and the temps dropped into the 30’s. Rome is damp and chilly to begin with; everyone wears stylish scarves all the time. One day I wore 3 sweaters under my fall jacket and was very glad I’d brought a hat, scarf and gloves along.
The first night we arrived at our hotel, The Rose Garden Palace, off the via Veneto near the Borghese Park, and it was quite late by the time we were settled into our stylish and comfortable rooms. On the advice of our extremely helpful front desk staff person/concierge Barbara, we walked a few blocks north to a lively pizzeria with housemade pasta for a wonderful dinner: il pomodorino turned out to be a neighborhood gem.
Luckily, that first sunny day was our walking overview of the city. We had a fantastic guide: Ron Phillips who introduced us to the bus system but basically walked us all around the city at a brisk pace, stopping at most of the famous sites—including the Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo,

the Pantheon with its incredible mathematical dome and containing

the haunting tomb of Raphael, 2 mourning doves embracing above it,

and the Fontana di Trevi, into which we all threw our coins, insuring our eventual return to Rome,



—all the while traversing through the different neighborhoods of Rome, pointing out special shopping areas like markets
and streets of antique stores, and generally gave us an overall acquaintance with the city in just one day. We immediately felt less like tourists and more like natives after spending the day with Ron. Plus, as an added bonus, we had lunch with him at Maccheroni, a fantastic pasta restaurant near Parliament (where Michelle Obama and the other wives had lunched during the G8 summit). I kept to my diet with a mixed green salad and grilled chicken breast with balsamic vinegar but everyone else sampled the pasta. I think Ron might have won with the house specialty of fresh fettucine (?) with parmesan cream and pepper, though everyone’s dish was different and delicious. Afterwards, Ron treated us to triple gelatos at one of the best gelaterias— Gelateria Della Palma (Via della Maddalena, 20/23), which had over 100 flavors! While the boys mostly stuck with variations of chocolate, Bob tried fruit flavors and I had tiramisu, zabaglione, and crème caramel. Luckily we did a lot of walking that day. Ron has a list of gelateria on his site and, if you want to survive them all, you’d better order a “picolo coppa” at each place!
The next day, we walked through the Borghese park in the drizzle to tour the lovely Borghese Gallery with its incredible artwork and marble and bronze statues. Especially notable were the reclining marble figure of Pauline Bonaparte by Antonio Canova, in which the carved wrinkles in the pillows and cushion on which she lies seem so incredibly realistic; and my favorite: Bernini’s amazing marble sculpture of Apollo and Daphne, with Daphne turning into a tree, leaves emerging from her fingertips, bark grasping up her legs, etc. These sculptures were exactly as I remembered, although apparently the galleries themselves have been renovated in the intervening time. That night we had dinner at a typical Italian grill restaurant, Girarrosto Toscano, which was oddly formal and old-fashioned and reminded us of eating at the old Berghoff Restaurant in Chicago.
On Sunday, the boys walked up the Via Veneto to visit the Capuchin Monastery Crypt at the Church of the Immaculate, via V. Veneto 27 (which I had seen before)—6 vaulted crypt rooms completely decorated with the bones and skulls of deceased friars. Yes, it is ghoulish but it is also a work of art. The message of the crypt is clear: Death closes the gates of time, and opens those of eternity. So many things in Rome are traditionally closed on Sunday, but that afternoon, as we wandered up and down the shopping streets near the Spanish Steps,
we found all the stores open and the streets packed with strolling tourists and Romans—apparently THE thing to do on a Sunday afternoon the week before Christmas. Sunday night we had dinner at a fabulous and inviting continental restaurant near the Spanish Steps, Babette, which I cannot praise highly enough. Every aspect of my dinner was spectacular in this warm, intimate restaurant and the special Babette’s Cake was to die for!
Monday we took a 5-hour walking tour of the ancient Roman Forum,


and we even saw the spot where Julius Caesar is supposedly still buried—people still leave flowers on his grave:

We walked all through the Forum, out through the Arch of Titus


and over to the Colosseum,
and the Palatine Hill with a guide from Through Eternity. It proved to be fascinating. The guide we had, Thomas Robinson, is a social historian and he was more knowledgeable than we could have imagined; it was so interesting to hear not just his facts about the people and places, but his theories and opinions about what happened in ancient times. We lunched at a small traditional trattoria. At the end of our tour, not yet tired of walking (!), we went in search of Il Gelato di San Crispino (Via Della Panetteria, 42), one of the most famous gelaterias, and then found our way to Il Fornaio (via dei Baullari 5/7), a fantastic bakery we had passed with Ron, where I wanted to buy some homemade amaretti—they were worth the search! That night we returned to the Spanish Steps to have dinner at a trendy vegetarian restaurant (and art gallery) with very unusual dishes: Il Margutta RistorArte.
Tuesday morning, the boys decided to continue their ghoulish tour and took a taxi out to the Catacombs of Priscilla, which is north of the city and has marvellous painted frescoes. They returned in time for us to grab a quick lunch and pick up our tickets for a tour of The Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s. The Vatican owns more art than any museum (although I remember seeing more of it 30 years ago) and we walked up and down corridors and stairways on our way to the Sistine Chapel. Unfortunately, many of the rooms were dark and hard to see and the Sistine Chapel ceiling (Michelangelo), when we finally got there, is lit only by a few windows. It was dark and rainy outside, so that, even without the crowds of people, it was hard to see any of the detail on the ceiling. I remember seeing it on a sunny day and being much more impressed than the boys were, which was disappointing. We took the tour group shortcut through to St. Peter’s, stared at Michelangelo’s La Pietà, and then walked around St. Peter’s, marvelling and aghast at all the overwrought baroque decoration everywhere. Absolutely nothing is left undecorated; even the decorations have decorations! The Roman Catholic Church certainly knows how to make a statement!
Late that afternoon, we wandered the streets across the river in search of an artesanal gelateria hidden in an alleyway off a pedestrian pathway: Gelateria Del Teatro (Via di San Simone, 70 Del Teatro); their gelato is made in the Sicilian style and they had an incredible dark chocolate/orange gelato, as well as a great almond (wish I’d tried the amaretto flavor). Then, switching gears, we headed to the Jewish Ghetto for a typical Roman Jewish meat dinner, fried artichokes and all, at La Taverna del Ghetto.
Our final day in Rome, the sun did come out sporadically, and we headed to the Jewish Ghetto for lunch at Nonna Betta, a wonderful kosher dairy restaurant with an amazing menu full of pizza, pasta, egg and other vegetable and dairy dishes. On the way there we had stopped first thing in the morning for one last gelato, at Giolitti (Via Uffici dei Vicario, 40), the 100-year-old gelateria that specializes in fresh fruit flavors. After lunch, we had a tour of the Jewish Ghetto with Micaela Pavoncello of JewishRoma. Mika is a bright, fascinating, knowledgeable, activist young woman who regaled us with tales of the history and culture of the two major groups of Jews in Rome: the Roman Jews (who are the only truly Palestinian Jews, descended from the Jews who had emigrated from Jerusalem as early as the 2nd century BCE/BC but who mostly arrived after the Destruction of The Temple in 70 CE/AD by the Romans) and the Libyan Jews, who came to Rome after the Six-Day War in 1967, when, through an airlift and the aid of several ships, the Italian navy helped evacuate more than 6,000 Jews to Rome in one month. The evacuees were forced to leave their homes, their businesses and most of their possessions behind. The Roman Jews are neither Ashkenazic nor Sephardic (the two types we are most used to in the US) so their customs and foods are unique to them: witness the fried artichoke (and other foods fried in olive oil, both olives and artichokes having grown in abundance in southern Italy).
We began our tour with a visit to the Tempio Maggiore, the Great Synagogue of Rome
(where Micaela is to be married in May)—it was lovely inside, despite its architecture and decoration looking almost exactly like that of a church. We also toured the Jewish Museum of Rome, which is part of the Synagogue complex and houses the collection of the Jewish Community of Rome: silver produced in Rome between the 17th and 18th centuries, precious fabrics from all over Europe, marbles that survived the demolition of the Cinque Scole (the single building that housed 5 small synagogues) in the ghetto, and manuscripts from the Middle Ages. The Jews of Rome had been accorded special legal rights under Julius Caesar, crushed under the Emperor Titus, flourished during the Middle Ages and early Renaissance.
However, in 1555, Pope Paul IV decreed that all Jews must be segregated into their own quarters (the ghetto), and they were forbidden to leave their homes during the night. The ghetto was a swampy section of Rome directly on the River Tiber, surrounded on 3 sides by buildings that composed its walls. There were gates at the corners of the ghetto and churches outside the gates with plaques exhorting the Jews to convert. Jews were forced to attend church every Sunday but many put wax into their ears so that they wouldn’t have to hear the words of the Christian service. The ghetto is a shockingly small area, the walkways between buildings narrow and dark; the many Jews crammed in there were forced to build upwards, so that buildings reached 5 and 6 stories and families lived cramped in one room. The ghetto flooded when the Tiber River flooded. It must have been a miserable existence, one that is hard to imagine when seeing the modern ghetto area that exists today on the site that remains (although the Tiber now has an embankment). However, it only served to bring the community closer together in spirit, as well as physically.
We learned all this and more from Mika, including her political feelings about today’s Roman Jews and how she feels about the current Pope finally accepting an invitation to visit the Great Synagogue this spring, 5 years after he was invited (he’s been busy). She is well known in the community, as we learned while sitting at an outdoor cafe sipping cappucinos after our tour. A visit to Boccione, the famous Jewish bakery in the ghetto, had yielded only their “pizze,” a sort of fruitcake concoction, fresh out of the oven. Unfortunately, the cinnamon/almond biscottini were long gone.
And then we had to leave Rome, catch our Alitalia flight to London’s Heathrow airport. We stayed overnight in London and managed to waste enough time the next morning so that we only had 1 hour to dash through Harrods before heading back to the airport for our American Airlines flight home. Surprise: Harrods’ food court had a special Ladurée bakery, with pastries and macarons straight from Paris!